Monday 15 April 2024

spanishwalkingeatingdrinkinglookingthinkingtalking



So 6 days in Spain - walking eating drinking looking thinking talking. Walking for 3 days covering 56 miles with 2 days staying in a hotel at the beginning and 2 days in a hotel at the end. It's part of a walk we are undertaking from Blamed to Portbu This is our third year, we started at L' Estartit and we arrived at the totally beautiful town of Cadaques. In between there was the extensive GrecoRoman remains at Empuries, huge WW2 bunkers commanding spectacular views, and Dali's house, which he lived in for 30 years in Portlligat which was totally excellent. You got a real feel for him and the context of his making. Highly recommended, but make sure you buy tickets in advance, they are made available in 3-month batches and go fast. Dali's house in, the next bay to Cadaques is totally fantastic. Not a guided tour but somehow better. You are introduced into each room for 15 minutes with 8 other visitors by a hugely knowledgeable guide of whom you can ask the most obscure questions and they know the answer. The welcoming spaces reveal themselves like a labyrinth, making the whole experience disorientating. There is so much to see and get your head around - stuffed swans, the tremendous bedroom with matching beds, strategically placed mirrors and windows with exquisite views but my favourite was the circular room where if you stand and make a noise in a certain place the reverberation is unnerving. You can then spend as long as you want in the extensive garden which has a charming swimming pool and lounging area. Most excellent, highly recommended. Got the bus to Figueres to see his museum which was fairly underwhelming - crowds not really looking at some of the stuff left over from the 70s. For the good stuff go to the Prado. But Figueres does have a totally fantastically bizarre toy museum full of tremendously dubious stuff, you will be on your own and be far more entertained. The food was, as ever in this part of the world overwhelming some days - sharing small plates you gotta have tomato and anchovies on bread with a crisp white wine along with sardines for lunch but for truly extraordinary eating shout out to MF in Cadaques  https://martinfaixo.com/ca/celler-mf.html and Hostel Empuries  https://hostalempuries.com/