ifnothingistrue,thenallisspectacle

 

To abandon facts is to abandon freedom. If nothing is true, then no one can criticize power, because there is no basis upon which to do so. If nothing is true, then all is spectacle.Timothy Snyder

A weekend in Tallinn - so much to see in what is a marvelous, clean and organised city – and the weather was great. Zipping around on mini-mopeds has to be the best fun ever and a gloriously child-like way to see a city which has the most fabulous cycle paths ever. Went out along the sea to see the monuments to people killed by the Soviet Union - what to say - it is overbearing - physically changing you in the space - it's really a space, an experience rather than a thing. So much extraordinary food and interesting drinks, especially cakes - some partaken whilst watching a dance and performance art battle - favourite section was where a contestant walked away and didn't come back - awesome.The end of year show at EKA was in a huge abandoned building so it felt like a real old-school art college experience rather than the corporate controlled display available in England. I love a student show – so much potential energy and there was also some good work. There are several small commercial spaces in Tallinn which I managed to check out - each containing professional, thoughtful work. The work of Alexei Gordin "Walled Up" where he breaks into abandoned buildings creates text pieces on the wall, photographs them and then works on them to create the work was challenging but also laugh out loud.The excellent maritime museum had interventions by art students and the museum itself is awesome - the objects the graphics the digital and physical interactive activities - all beautiful and thoughtful and interesting. KUMU the huge art gallery had a solo show by Ragnar Kjartansson: A Boy and a Girl and a Bush and a Bird, which was thoughtful and mesmerising but also a number of interventions into the collection, which is truly challenging in terms of cataloguing the history of Estonia through art. St. Nicholas Church has 7 meters of what was a 30m 'lifesize' painting of the dance of death - truly spectacular, as was a huge, multi-layered alter-piece. Thought about the work I intend to make for the faith room at SZC and the idea of faith and body and belief. A lecture on ai at Tallinn art school was open to all so popped in to listen - it was a good intro to some of the philosophical issues swirling around about ai - liked the thought about the idea of territory and chaos within the context of the internet, the role of art science and philosophy at the margins as outriders bringing ideas into the mainstream. 

coldadventures

Another amazing day at Kings College working with the great team that is synthetic anatomy. The groups are beginning to gell, the session on team building connected to today's workshop, which included SWOT analysis on the senses combined with animals (what do we mean by useful?) and developing communication skills with 'bag anatomy'. A swift visit to the Science Gallery and off to Stansted to catch a plane to Tallinn. A glorious couple of days in Tallinn - so so cold but  public transport is so connected and easy, making  movement through the city a joy. From one eating spot to another with galleries and museums in-between. Add warehouses full of second hand stuff, areas viing for high rise dystopian post USSR award, walks along the Baltic, going to the top of the Tallinn TV tower and beating eachother with eucalyptus branches in a Russian sauna meant that it all felt easy, especially as the fare was cheap or free if you are a resident. We ate fabulous food, Especially loved the Georgian Food at The Kurz (chuttu and kartulige) the fusion food at SALT, pizza at the 50th top pizza restaurant in Europe, herring in blackcurrant for breakfast and the pastries are to die for almost everywhere, actually everywhere. Estonian Kringel is a must. In terms of galleries and museums The Kumu is a glorious modern space with a superb collection, it was interesting to think about how artists have been sharing information and talking with each other in an underground 'soft power' way for years, evidenced by the creation of similar work to European artists and movements. To not value this and in fact for Brexiteers and rightwing nationists around the world to remove the support and block creative discussions is just dumb but artists will find ways to collaborate, share and grow together, this is why creativity frightens the small, insular minded. Meanwhile - I don't know if it was translation but the texts in the shows were poetic in nature, especially the titles - Symptoms of change - They began to talk - The future is in one hour - Museum of Obsessions - When wicked resides without -Alarming are the bells that echo in the landscape - The forgotten tablecloth: the spell of crumpled materials -The dance of small steps - Object to be destroyed - Elementary forms and the Anatomy of Feelings. We will return.

backinthebackinthebackintheUSSR

So - a few days in Tallinn. A fascinating place with a both short and long history. The USSR looms everywhere, buildings and housing in general feels other. I had travelled far away enough from England for the shops to be full of food I had never seen before. Managed a glorious sauna and swam in a still, clear Baltic sea, ate tasty food - mainly smoked - ribs, salmon, elk, bear, deer, cods roe.... alongside some unusual cakes. Drank some of the most powerfully tasting beers infused with pine needles, juniper, and cloud berries. The extraordinary experience that is the old town is like stepping back in time, cycling through it is challenging with cobbles the size of a child's head but you gotta love buildings with hudge gothic text painted on them. A party at the art school, which actually feels like an art school, was unhinged, what a great place to study. Droped into some interesting, challeging  exhibitions.The colours of the Ukrainian flag are everywhere, which is understandable, there is a solidarity which is complicated by history. I have just begun to get my head around some of what Tallinn is about but feel I need to return.