Back from a short and yet somehow extended trip out of this sad Brexit filed country over to France and then Finland. Spending time with 'foreigners' is challenging. They ask questions like What is going wrong in Britain? Don't you like us anymore? With a bemused air of confusion. I find it best to start any conversation with an apology for being English. Johnson is seen as a fool child and we implicated along with him for encouraging and supporting him, there is little understanding of why we, the public put up with the constant obvious lying. Best to keep a distance from all of the nonsense but it's difficult when our very existence somehow represents all this. Meanwhile, as ever Marseille was glorious, bright blue skies and wondrous food. Dropped into the Frac which had some interesting work by Hamish Fulton but I felt was poorly hung. An old friend 60th birthday party was the focus of the break - great wine and food and dancing to music - live and recorded late into the morning. It all made for a fantastic experience - it's a reason for living. The setting up and taking down felt communal with a chance to catch up with friends from the past. Helsinki was all about the Biennale - we had tickets 2 years ago, but Government rules around Covid put a stop to that. Helsinki itself was extraordinary - clean, spacious, and full of great design, large and expansive second-hand shops, clean, wide streets, cheap efficient public transport with swimming and saunas all around. They have a truly amazing library, that felt like a utopian ideal with recording studios to hire, booths with gaming devices, a huge area that was a maker space, superb seating and full of light. Well designed, expansive tube stations transported you at speed, cleanly and on time to yet another museum or art gallery where the focus was always on celebrating Finland's rich heritage. The Biennale took place on an island, with every artist addressing the environmental impact of humans on this planet in a way that was rich and open. Why wouldn't you when you have such stunning landscape all around. Ham has a giant seagull on its entrance, a warning sign of the vicious birds beadily eyeing your food around the docks and port. Inside I saw thoughtful commissioning work, again around environmental issues. Out on a 20-minute tube ride to Esposito was the glorious EMMA which has a collection of glassware, crafts, and textiles, displayed so cleverly. The temporary show by Pierre Huyghe was equal parts distressing and all consuming. In the accompanying video interview, he talks about queerness in a way that, is at the true root of its meaning. He is making important, unsettling work that truly makes you think. A visit to Helsinki's modern fully equipped art school, which has dedicated studios for the lectures - now there's an idea, was again eye opening, again it felt like somehow England has been left behind. It was located just down the road from a partially repurposed meat market where the easy-going bars nestle with the existing meat wholesalers. Reindeer sausages and tinned bear meat anybody? I would recommend Helsinki to anyone, although there was a lot of impressive stairs so I'm unsure about access.
And finally, did I mention that it didn't get dark! Strangely disorienting at first but you get used to it walking around at 1 in the morning with a very slight orange dusk in the air. I'm sure I will be back as I only touched the surface on what is on offer.
